The convergence of biotechnology and design reached new heights this October at Design Miami.Paris 2024, where MycoWorks, the pioneering mycelium textile biotechnology firm, showcased their Reishi™ material through a curated exhibition of functional art pieces.
The Science Behind the Art
MycoWorks' journey began in the 1990s when mycologist Philip Ross started exploring the structural capabilities of mycelium - the thread-like network of fungal cells that forms the vegetative part of fungi. What distinguishes MycoWorks' approach is their focus on reishi mushrooms Ganoderma lucidum, known in scientific literature for their exceptional tensile strength and adaptability.
The company's proprietary Fine Mycelium™ technology, developed since their 2013 founding, represents a significant advancement in biomaterial engineering. Unlike traditional leather or synthetic alternatives, Reishi™ achieves its structural integrity through controlled cellular growth, creating an interconnected matrix at the microscopic level.
Technical Innovation Meets Design
Reishi™ demonstrates remarkable versatility in its material properties. Its unique composition allows for varied surface treatments including dyeing, embossing, and varnishing, whilst maintaining structural characteristics that bridge the properties of leather and textile materials. Perhaps most importantly, it achieves this whilst remaining biodegradable, addressing a crucial environmental concern in material science.
This innovation arrives at a crucial moment for the materials industry. The global leather goods market, valued at £236.1 billion in 2020 according to Grand View Research, faces mounting environmental challenges. Traditional leather production demands approximately 2,000 gallons of water per hide, contributes significantly to methane emissions, and typically involves chrome tanning processes that produce hazardous waste.
Mycelium Muse Exhibition
The exhibition "Mycelium Muse: Discover Reishi™" revealed the material's full potential through seven distinctive pieces.
Sophie Dries' Khara Mirror integrated Reishi™ with Corten steel, demonstrating the material's compatibility with industrial elements whilst highlighting its natural variations as intentional design features.
Marion Mailaender's Aspen Stools showcased the advanced manufacturing capabilities of Reishi™ through precise laser-cutting techniques, proving its viability for load-bearing furniture applications. The pieces exemplified how traditional techniques like sewing and sheathing can seamlessly merge with contemporary manufacturing methods.
The Undergrowth Desk by Anna Le Corno pushed boundaries by combining Reishi™ with myrtle burr veneer. This synthesis of materials demonstrated how mycelium-based products can complement traditional woodworking techniques whilst maintaining structural integrity.
Josephine Fossey's Lampadaire Silencieux lamp explored previously unknown properties of the material, particularly its ability to diffuse light effectively. The piece's minimalist design highlighted Reishi™'s opalescent qualities, opening new possibilities for lighting applications.
Pauline Guerrier's "Daphne, The Metamorphosis", a bas-relief screen, demonstrated the material's potential for large-format applications and architectural elements. The piece drew inspiration from Greek mythology whilst showcasing modern manufacturing capabilities.
Sarah Valente's Magic Ancestors proved the material's resilience through various treatment methods. The monumental fresco, comprising ten sheets of treated Reishi™, revealed the material's compatibility with diverse finishing techniques and its potential for large-scale artistic applications.
Fanny Perrier's neo-classical folding screen validated the material's durability in moving components and large surfaces, suggesting possibilities for functional furniture pieces that maintain aesthetic sophistication.
Future Implications
This exhibition transcends mere artistic exploration. It provides empirical evidence that mycelium-based materials can effectively replace traditional materials in high-end applications whilst significantly reducing environmental impact. MycoWorks' collaboration with French design agency Paragone illustrates the potential for scaling bio-based materials in luxury markets, traditionally resistant to alternative materials.
The successful integration of Reishi™ across diverse applications suggests implications beyond fashion and furniture. As MycoWorks continues to refine its Fine Mycelium™ technology, applications could expand into automotive, aerospace, and architectural domains.